Monday 13 June 2016

So glad to be back in Brittany in one piece... he built a chapel.


298 metres above sea level may not seem that high in the overall scale of mountain peaks but that's where, in 1380 a local Knight with his home at Le Quillio ('crest' in Celtic) in the Cotes d'Armor, had decided he would build a homage... the first Chapel of St Lorette. The spot had previously been used as a burial site in Neolithic times (10,200BC) and is marked by 28 stones… There must be some significance in that the stones in a line to the North are of white Quartz and those to the south are of schist or slate. 



So it was that in the 14th Century a then Count of Uzel (a hilltop village, 6km from our house in Brittany) who significantly became Constable and leader of the armies of the King of France (top job) was fighting in Italy and was close to Ancona where the original chapel to Our Lady of Lorette is sited… He vowed, at this his darkest moment, that if he survived and won through during this, his worst ordeal, that he would build a chapel at the highest point on his land and dedicate it to Our Lady of Lorette… He and his men must have pulled through because here is the current chapel. It's setting is stunning and the views are spectacular :- the chapel sits amidst pine trees next to the Neolithic burial stones. Modern accoutrements of picnic benches do not detract from the serene atmosphere that is quite palpable. 


In 1854 the local town council decided that the original chapel was in too bad a state of repair to be restored adequately and should be replaced by a new building. A shame they didn't leave the ruin for all to see and build the new one as a neihbour. Although it seems unlikely, because of its hilltop position, the site is in fact a natural area for the catchment of rainwater and feeds several springs further down the slopes that shelve away from the site. One spring, about a quarter mile down the hill and within sight of the chapel down a straight lane, wooded on each side, is capped with an ornate monument dedicated to Our Lady of Lorette. The water is considered miraculous. Micki dipped her hands in the water and was immediately relieved of a' locked' finger which for years clicked in and out of place each time she opened and closed her hand. That was a moment of amazement. Unfortunately it was back to normal the following day… So filling a few bottles might be an option. The waters have been specifically noted for the relief of ear infections and hearing problems. "Sorry?… What was that?

If you're passing and are in need of a cure... (to be honest just being up there makes you feel good) then traveling through Le Quillio from east to west toward Mur de Bretagne… pass the 'end of the village' sign… (Its name with a cross through it) then keep a look out for a right turn up the hill which is signposted  "ND d'Lorette"… follow the signs until the ornate well monument appears on your left… the turning for the chapel is immediately opposite - to the right. There is random parking amongst the tress… nothing formal and on the occasions we have been there we have been virtually alone… Enchanting. The chapel is open with some very attractive stained glass windows. It is a place of noticeable calm. And it appears to be well supported by the local community.


Note:- For those who don't know, across France there is a custom of communities, centering on their local church of course, supporting outlying chapels via the holding of 'Pardons'. The day often begins with a baptism or two…Local farmers donate the food for the communal meal (a friend calls them pig & potato functions)… but it's a 4 course meal with coffee to follow and plenty of wine And the long lunch is often followed by typical village fete attractions. Villagers pay 10 Euros each… Everyone has a good day out, a hearty lunch with good conversation and the chapels have their maintenance funds for another year… Voila! 

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